Drafting the Front Armhole Curve

Hello! Last time, you skillfully performed one of the most fundamental operations in patternmaking: rotating the bust dart from the shoulder to the side seam. Your front pattern piece now has its main shaping element correctly positioned, and your shoulder and side seams are now in their final orientation.

In this lesson, we will build on that structure by drafting the curve that forms the front armhole. This isn't just a freehand sketch; it's a carefully constructed curve that uses key measurements to ensure a good fit across the chest and under the arm. Think of this step as defining the final contour of the upper bodice, connecting the key structural points you've already established.

By the end of our session, you will have constructed the front armhole curve, completing the primary outline of your front bodice block.

Scaffolding the Armhole Curve

To draw an accurate armhole, we first need to create a few guide points. These points act as a scaffold, ensuring the curve is shaped correctly and is neither too tight nor too gaping. Your experience with systems thinking in design will be helpful here, as we're creating a small system of points to guide the final shape.

We'll use a precise, step-by-step method to plot these guides. The tutorial "How to: Draft a bodice block" from In the Folds provides an excellent, detailed walkthrough of this process. While the tutorial drafts the front and back bodice on the same sheet, we will focus only on the points relevant to the front armhole you are working on.

First, ensure you have the following lines and points clearly marked on your front bodice draft:

• The Center Front line.
• The Bust Line (the horizontal line passing through your bust apex).
• The Shoulder Point (the outer tip of your shoulder seam).
• The Underarm Point (the top of your side seam, which should be on your bust line).

Now, let's create the guide points.

After completing these steps, your draft should have the key points needed to draw the curve: your Shoulder Point, Point A2, Point B2, and your Underarm Point.

Drawing the Final Curve

With your scaffolding in place, you are now ready to draw the armhole curve. The goal is to connect your Shoulder Point to your Underarm Point, passing through your guide points in a smooth, continuous line.

You can do this freehand, but using a French curve ruler is highly recommended for a professional result. The curve on the ruler helps blend the different segments of the armhole gracefully.

• Upper Curve: Position your French curve to connect the Shoulder Point to Point A2. The curve here should be relatively shallow.
• Lower Curve: Reposition the ruler to connect Point A2 to the Underarm Point, making sure the curve touches Point B2 on its way. This part of the curve will be much deeper.

The key is to make the transition between the two sections smooth. The short video below from The Awl-Nighter demonstrates the motion of using a French curve to connect the shoulder point to the side seam, ensuring the curve respects the vertical guide line you created.

Draw your final armhole curve, making sure it flows smoothly. Take your time to adjust the French curve until you are satisfied with the shape. The line should start almost vertically at the side seam for about 1cm (3/8") before curving out.

Your front bodice pattern piece now has its final shape defined: a center front, a neckline, a shoulder seam, an armhole, a side seam, and a waistline.

Conclusion

In this lesson, you have meticulously constructed the front armhole. You learned that this critical curve is not drawn arbitrarily but is shaped by a scaffold of guide points derived from your body's measurements—specifically, your bust point location and armscye depth. This methodical approach ensures a predictable and accurate fit.

Key Takeaways:

• An armhole curve is drafted using guide points to control its shape and width.
• Key guides for the front armhole relate to the bust apex location (to control width across the chest) and armscye depth (to control the curve's height).
• A small diagonal guide at the underarm helps create a smooth, non-restrictive corner.
• A French curve is the ideal tool for connecting these points into a single, graceful line.

You have now completed the main shaping for the upper part of your front bodice. The final step in shaping the torso is to address the fit below the bust. In our next lesson, we will do just that by drafting the front waist dart for lower torso shaping.