Welcome back! In our previous session, you successfully transformed your measurements into a foundational blueprint—the rectangular framework for your bodice block. This grid, with its carefully marked Center Back, Bust, and Waist lines, is the essential starting point for creating a pattern that is uniquely yours.
This lesson marks an exciting transition from straight lines to the curves and angles that define the human form. We will begin shaping the back of the bodice, focusing specifically on the elegant curve of the neckline and the precise angle of the shoulder. Your experience in industrial design, translating 2D plans into 3D objects, will be particularly relevant here as we start to sculpt the flat pattern to fit the body's contours.
By the end of this lesson, you will have drafted the back neckline and the shoulder slope, including its shaping dart, bringing the upper portion of your back bodice pattern to life.
A Visual Roadmap
Before we begin, let's look at a diagram that shows where we are headed. The image below illustrates the key lines we will be creating today: the back neckline curve, the downward-sloping shoulder line, and the small dart within it that provides shaping for the shoulder blade.
Part 1: Drafting the Back Neckline
The first feature we will add is the back neckline. This involves two steps: plotting the width of the neck opening and then drawing a shallow curve to connect it to the Center Back (CB).
For the calculation and plotting, we will continue using the excellent, methodical guide from In the Folds that we started with in the last lesson. You will need your neck circumference measurement for this step.
This section will guide you through calculating the width of your back neck opening and marking it on your draft.
Find the heading "Construct the back neckline". Follow the instructions to calculate your neck width (neck measurement divided by 5) and mark this as point J on the top line of your framework. Pay close attention to the tip provided right after, concerning the angle of the curve. The instruction to ensure a right angle where the curve meets the Center Back line (point A) is critical for a professional result. It prevents a "V" shape from forming at the center back seam.
With point J marked, you are ready to draw the curve. A French curve is the ideal tool for this. The goal is to create a smooth, shallow curve from point J to point A, ensuring it starts perpendicular to the Center Back line for the first centimeter or so before curving up to meet J.
The diagram below gives a clear, static illustration of this step.
To see this in motion, watch this short clip.
How To Draft A Basic Bodice Pattern Using Your Own Measurements | Sew Anastasia
This video from Sew Anastasia provides a clear, quick demonstration of how to position and use a French curve to draw the back neckline.
Watch from drawing the curve to see the technique in action. Notice how the curve is smooth and connects the points seamlessly.
Part 2: Drafting the Shoulder Slope and Dart
Now that the neckline is defined, we can draft the shoulder seam. Human shoulders are not horizontal; they slope downwards from the neck. We will replicate this angle and also add a small dart to accommodate the curve of your shoulder blade, which is essential for a close-fitting garment.
This process involves three key actions:
- Drawing a horizontal guideline to define the angle of the slope.
- Pivoting your ruler from the neck point (J) to draw the shoulder seam at the correct length.
- Adding the dart to this line.
We will again turn to the In the Folds tutorial for its precise, step-by-step instructions. You will need your armscye depth and shoulder length measurements.
This part of the tutorial explains a professional method for establishing the shoulder slope and length simultaneously.
Read the section titled "Drafting the Back Shoulder Seam". Follow the instructions carefully: First, calculate and mark point N and draw the horizontal guideline. Next, add 1.5 cm to your shoulder length measurement. This extra length is for the dart we will add. Finally, perform the pivot action with your ruler: place the zero end at point J, and rotate it until your calculated shoulder length (e.g., shoulder length + 1.5 cm) intersects the guideline. Draw the line and label the endpoint O.
To help visualize this crucial pivot technique, the following video demonstrates it clearly. Seeing it done can make the written instructions click into place.
Drafting Fitted Bodice Sloper - Professional Method, Part 1
This clip from Christopher Sartorial shows the same method of establishing a slope guideline and then pivoting a ruler to find the exact shoulder point.
Watch the segment from shoulder slope. Observe how he measures down to create the slope, then places his ruler at the neck and rotates it to meet the shoulder line at the correct length. This is exactly the process you will follow.
Now that you have your shoulder line (J-O), the final step is to add the dart. A standard placement for this dart is at the midpoint of the shoulder.
How to draft the Basic Bodice Pattern
This resource gives simple, clear measurements for a standard shoulder dart.
In the section "Bodice Pattern: Back piece," find step 3, which begins Add a dart. Use these instructions to draw your dart on the shoulder line you just created. Find the middle of line J-O, draw an 8 cm line down at a right angle, and mark the 1.5 cm width. Connect the points to form the dart triangle.
As a final touch, you will "true" the dart. Because a dart removes a wedge of fabric, it slightly alters the line of the seam. To correct for this, you can slightly raise the shoulder line over the dart. This ensures a smooth seam after the dart is sewn. This professional refinement is demonstrated well in the Sew Anastasia video. Watching from
Conclusion
Excellent work. You have now moved beyond the initial grid and have started to sculpt the pattern to your form. By plotting and drawing the back neckline and the shoulder slope, you've defined the entire upper boundary of your back bodice.
Key Takeaways:
- The back neckline is drafted as a shallow curve connecting the Center Back to a point determined by your neck measurement (
neck / 5). - The neckline curve must meet the Center Back line at a 90-degree angle to ensure a smooth seam.
- The shoulder slope is created by pivoting your ruler from the neck point to intersect a horizontal guideline at your precise shoulder length.
- A shoulder dart is added to the back shoulder seam to create space and shape for the shoulder blade, which is crucial for a good fit.
In our next lesson, we will complete the upper back by constructing the armhole curve. This will connect the shoulder point you just drafted (O) down to the side of the bodice, finalizing the outline of the back pattern piece.
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